My first idea was to use the Gitea instance of the Free Software Foundation Europe, but T&Cs strongly encourage only projects with direct relation to the FSFE activities, so personal projects don’t seem welcome.
The first-party Gitea platform seems to be in risk of becoming for-profit.
I second Sourcehut. I liked it so much, I started paying for it a couple of years ago.
The CI works really well, and the parts are slowly (but continuously) becoming more integrated and cohesive.
The features I like best may, however, be anti-features to others. The web interfaces are spartan (and correspondingly lightweight). Many interactions require more esoteric workflows - such as the aforementioned “PRs via email.” You could self-host the entire suite, if you wanted, and there’s almost no possibility for vendor lock-in… I guess there’s no real downside to that one. And Drew is a Character, which is fun if you agree with him on many things, which I do, but could be annoying if you don’t.
I am a happy subscriber, FWIW.