

It’s more like £150/year, but it’s charged every 3 years. Still very expensive compared to .com for sure!


It’s more like £150/year, but it’s charged every 3 years. Still very expensive compared to .com for sure!


This looks really good and I’m enthused with how responsive you’re being, will definitely give it a try.
It is a bit of a shame you didn’t call it Jott as jo.tt is available as a domain, but then the tt TLD is pretty expensive so maybe not!


It’s niche but I like to point it out whenever I get the opportunity: if your workplace uses Bitwarden Enterprise, every licensed user gets a free family plan that can be linked to any account. I haven’t personally paid for BW for years.


This is the sort of nerdery I’m here for! Pray tell, how would you go about using those temperature glyphs with a phone keyboard?
This right here. In the UK we have a little box (ONT) where the fibre comes into the home that essentially acts as a modem and converts the fibre to ethernet and back again and then they provide a separate wireless router that plugs into it. Other than for my current ISP where I had to specifically request that they enable bridge mode (which they did for free), I’ve never had any issues plugging my own router into the ethernet side of this box.
If your ISP’s wireless router plugs directly into the fibre then you should be able to request that it’s set to bridge mode so that it becomes just a dumb ONT box like we have here. Albeit a large and clunky one.


Contacting the registrar is worth a shot and could be your best bet. I recently did a similar thing except the expiring domain was on a pretty obscure country-TLD with only one registrar. They told me how long the grace period was and then I setup a script to check the availability every minute and alert me when it came up.
Probably not feasible with a .com or similar but they might be able to help in some regard. Edit: though having read about drop catching, that’s definitely your best bet if it’s likely to be sniped!


My fancy toaster came with dire warnings to not leave it plugged in when it’s unsupervised, presumably because the cut-off on the mechanical timer can fail. Instead I plugged it into a smart socket with an automation to kill the power if there’s a continuous draw for more than 4 minutes.
Not for fun but probably my most pointless. Other than when I was testing it I don’t expect this automation to ever fire.


This is very impressive and I’m highly likely to give it a whirl. My question is, though: would it be something that my very non-tech savvy wife could use?
Eg. I’m thinking setup the app on her phone with a default location and when she asks me for a file I can just tell her that I’ve “put it in the app”, and she’ll be able to easily retrieve it. Also same thing but vice versa, though the video seems to cover that via the Android share menu…
Again, super impressive. Good job!
I used to work at a games studio that would get these delivered fairly regularly, usually paired with a particular motherboard and presumably a custom BIOS.
I think we were technically supposed to return them but the manufacturers never enforced it, so once the chip was actually released to the public - and assuming the sample was stable enough for general use - the PC would rotate into normal stock and eventually get sold for cheap to staff or end up in the spare parts bin.
While it was cool at first to get pre-production chips before anyone else, it became pretty mundane and I’m not at all surprised to see them out in the wild decades later. Interesting piece of history though!


My workplace ran off DL360s (the 1U variant of this) of various generations for 20 or 30 years. I remember getting the first G5 in and being really impressed by the way the components all slotted in so easily and pretty much everything was hot-swappable. And the no-nut rail system was a revalation.
They were great systems for their time but that power consumption is crazy by today’s standards!
As for feedback, you have a very confusing sentence about 2.5" and 3.5" drives being the same size. Took me far too long to realise you meant capacity and not physical dimensions!


Just a PSA for anybody reading the thread, though it doesn’t really help with the question at hand… On the very slim chance that your workplace uses Bitwarden Enterprise it’s worth knowing that every licensed user gets a free family plan that can be tied to an existing personal account, provided it’s hosted in the same region.
We do use it but very few of our own users are even aware of the perk so I like to spread it around when I get the chance!
I skim read the changelogs for breaking changes but mostly just YOLO it whenever I’m in the mood to update or a new monthly release drops.
That said, the VM that runs HAOS and the Z2M addon is snapshotted every night with two week’s worth of retention, and I let HA do its own scheduled backups in case a snapshot restore doesn’t work for whatever reason. So far I’ve never had a need for either but I rest easy knowing the options are there.


It’s an 8 bay unit with six drives that are a mix of WD Red and Seagate Ironwolf, all NAS grade drives, basically. The other two slots have SSDs for hosting the aforementioned containers and VMs.
The largest drives I have are 4TB though, so maybe the larger capacity ones are louder? I also ran the fan profile in whatever the quietest setting is.


I am a tech oriented person, I work in IT, and a Syno ticks the boxes in many respects.
Low power draw. Power efficiency is very important to me, especially for something that runs 24/7. I don’t know how efficient self-build options are these days, but 10 years ago I couldn’t get close to the efficiency of a good NAS.
Set and forget. I maintain enough systems at work so I don’t really want to spend all of my free time maintaining my own. A Syno “just works”, it can run for months or years without a reboot (and when it does need one, it does it by itself overnight), and I can easily upgrade or swap a dead drive in a couple of minutes. When the entire NAS dies I can stick the drives in a new one and be up and running almost instantly.
Size and noise. I don’t have a massive house, so I need something that can sit on a shelf and be unobtrusive. In our last house it was literally sat in the living room, spinning drives constantly, and nobody was bothered by it.
The Syno I have is plenty good enough to run a bunch of Docker containers and a few VMs for all of my self hosted stuff, and it just does the job efficiently, quietly, and without complaining or needing constant maintenance.
I don’t like this creep towards requiring branded drives and memory, though I’m pretty sure it’s not legal in the EU. Regardless there are ways around it.


I have that Beelink and while I don’t run Home Assistant on it (I run that from a VM on my NAS) , it does run a whole bunch of stuff, including Plex, and it’s more than capable.
I think you have a couple of options here:
Run HAOS on the bare metal and use Home Assistant addons to add the other functionality you want. Addons are HA managed Docker containers and there’s lots of them out there, including Plex. What I don’t know is whether you can access hardware acceleration this way, which you can do via regular Docker (see below).
Install something like Unraid, Proxmox or whatever flavour of Linux you prefer - literally anything that supports full blown VMs and Docker at the same time. Install HAOS in a VM and use Docker for everything else. Passthrough /dev/dri to any Docker containers that use hardware acceleration (Plex) and you’re golden.
It’s a great little box. Enjoy!


If you own a domain, which you do, you can get wildcard certs from Let’s Encrypt using a DNS challenge. Most (all?) popular reverse proxies can do this either natively or via an addon/module, you just need to use a supported DNS provider.


Everybody ITT talking about dashboards when the real killer feature is global variables within automations.
Had to scroll way too far to find this. For Karl!


Libraries were simple enough, sure, but have you delved into the full settings? Trying to figure out the correct settings for QuickSync hardware acceleration was a mission in and of itself and there’s very little guidance on what any of the options mean or do. I don’t have the container running right now or I’d provide examples, but In Plex it’s a single checkbox.
I’m sure Jellyfin will get there and it’s a cool project, but it’s fairly obvious that it’s written by hobbyists, for hobbyists. Meanwhile Plex excels at just working straight out of the box.
I have a mix of normal Hue bulbs and some Innr brand GU10 (spotlight) bulbs. The difference in quality of light from both brands is quite noticeable, with Hue being far and away better in terms of colour blending and accuracy. There’s a reason the Hue bulbs are 2-3x the price of the competition
That said, I’ve had multiple Hue bulbs either outright fail or one LED die so that it still works but the colour is completely wrong. It’s frustrating for bulbs that are supposed to last decades but maybe the latest generation are more robust.
They’re also regularly on sale for Black Friday and the like, so I’d advise planning your purchases around those events.
I wouldn’t worry about leaving them on. Standby power draw is very low and I think even at maximum output they use about 7W each. It’s just not a big deal.