I had mixed experiences with both. On one hand, Amazon replaced my 3DS no questions asked when a shoulder button failed (Nintendo pretended the serial didn’t exist…), on the other hand my preorder of the Bayonetta Amiibo (Amazon for the EU) well… they cancelled it like six months after it got released and the support person had no idea what was going on. On AliExpress I ordered a drone that got delivered “to the wrong address” and the seller very clearly tried to scam me with helpful instructions on how to mark it as received to progress with the refund. But then I also got the logic board for my 3d printer from the manufacturer, and a reasonably priced remote controller for my drone.

Yeah, mine (that I didn’t scientifically measure but….) requires a hell of an effort to pull open using only my pinky. Obviously I don’t expect that mine is the only model on the market XD but that’s what I know

Not sure what kind of dishwasher we’re talking about, but I have a SwitchBot and it’s made to push buttons: it wouldn’t be anywhere near powerful enough to open a dishwasher (as I know them)

Ah, great choice! I use the same model for my NAS. Anyway the N100 is really powerful for this task, and should have enough spare power to allow experimentation with different addons. Plex likes the intel chip and uses it for transcoding, if you want to do that.

I have Zigbee stuff. Here’s what I like about that: they bridge between each other (if they’re powered rather than battery operated) and that extends the range. The range can be great to begin with! They’re not on my network, adding confusion or load on the access points, plus they can’t phone home… all local. Then there’s smart switches, and I’m going to point out that without WiFi they can’t be controlled, but Zigbee? Sure, I can easily power cycle my router and access points with Zigbee smart plugs! In fact I have an automation to do that daily. Finally, if something is WiFi you can’t know in advance if it’s cloud based or not, and regardless of that it’s a potentially unsafe device that is connected to the internet. Low power, but botnets work with numbers rather than power.

I don’t know how the various options here work, BUT you might also appreciate them too https://libredirect.github.io/index.html (this is where I found the other link)

Seems a good time to drop this here https://breezewiki.com/

This reminds me that it’s a new month, and time for a backup. Thanks!

Had access to cli, restarted HA and quickly disabled the Alexa integration: so far everything is working as intended :)

Similarly unfortunate situation for me, using the backup didn’t really help. But I DO have the Alexa integration, I guess next time I get HA between reboots I’ll disable that.

I think on my system it’s causing reboots. Not fun.

Fortunately my thermometers don’t do that, because they are a good choice, Zigbee wise. Always on the lookout for replacements, if the need arises…

The bloody morons… why they say 16 tops if it can do better? It’s not like they don’t have access to 16gb sticks to test 2 of them! Like, I get when it’s “this supports up to” and that’s the largest available at launch, but this is just stupid. Thanks for correcting me!

super easy to upgrade to 32/48gb

Not on an N95/97/100 as they support max 16… https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/231803/intel-processor-n100-6m-cache-up-to-3-40-ghz.html so they can be repaired, but not upgraded.

The wireless Reolinks are not great. Like, nothing against the camera itself, however, the WiFi antenna must be smaller than the one in my watch. The range is truly abysmal.

Tapo ones are perfectly fine, good quality all around, but it’s important to specify that I have experience with external, solar powered Reolinks and indoor Tapo, so it’s a bit of a different category.

I’m going to top that… I thank whatever assistant I’m talking to. After I get the answer. And they’re not listening anymore.

Real or not, it just feels wrong not to thank after I asked for something and received it.

In iOS there’s an option in the app to select a different icon, including the old design. Now, they’ve updated all the others so if you want the old design and for example the purple icon that’s a no go, but…

I like your solution, quite clever! But in my instance I actually want it to turn off once the print is over. I don’t remember the details but I think it’s set up so it will turn off after the hot end has cooled down for a few minutes, it’s controlled by a plug-in for Octoprint.

You do need to know the number, IF you want to maximize the amount of cooling via open window vs AC.

That aside I’m pretty sure this is an “agree to disagree” situation, mostly because it’s clear we have different tastes. A smart home for me has the value of letting me control everything in a single place (always on me), without going around looking for remotes that might need a new battery. Automations are good, but I want to keep control over every little detail.

So you would be fine being a guest in someone’s else house, no control over anything and just let whatever automations are in place do their thing? But all of this in your own home? Temperature is an important value to know, tells if it’s better to turn off the AC/heat and just open the windows at that time, or when it’s the better moment to open them and air the place. Same with air quality, if it gets worse with the windows open it’s better to close them, or if it’s not great inside it might be a good idea to open.

My fan has an app or a pair of buttons on top, no remote.