On a Saturday in February, high school senior Kaylee Lemmien sifted through racks of dresses at Tinker Tailor, a small shop in downtown Elk Rapids, a village of about 1,500 people in northern Michigan. “I’d call this a mermaid, sequin, light blue gown with a tulle skirt. It’s got a lace-up back, kind of open,” Lemmien said. “Very pretty.” Tinker Tailor usually alters clothes, but on this day it was selling them — prom dresses, to be exact. Gowns in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors — short and long, neons and pastels, satin and sequins — lined the racks. The garments were donated and consigned by people around the region, with the goal of giving them a new life at the Elk Rapids High School prom in May. Called Sustainable Style, the secondhand shopping initiative takes aim at fast fashion.

French lawmakers advanced a bill that seeks to rein in fast fashion’s impact on the climate, labor rights and the economy. The bill would ban certain “ultra-fast-fashion” companies like Shein from advertising and penalize them by up to 10 euros per individual item of clothing. It also would force fast-fashion retailers to include information on their products’ reuse, repair, recycling and environmental impact next to the product’s price.

>“The age of plastic began because it mimicked other things, and the functionality was so good that it became its own thing,” fashion designer Uyen Tran told Grist, when we interviewed her for our 2023 Grist 50 list. In 2020, Tran founded a company called TômTex to create bio-based materials that can replace synthetic fabrics as well as leather and suede. She believes that a wave of new materials is ready to outcompete plastic-based textiles. “I think biomaterial is on the edge of becoming its own thing as well. Just give us a few more years, and you will see.” >In this newsletter, we’re rounding up a handful of the materials — from apple waste to artificial spider silk — that are already on the market, offering a glimpse of a plastic-free future for our textiles.

I bought [this machine from the 1960s](https://ia802906.us.archive.org/28/items/singer-237-user-manual-en_202005/Singer-237_User-Manual_EN.pdf) (cost: ~5 Big Macs). I did not clean it or oil it as I wanted to just see if it works. It made a straight line without issue. Then for the 2nd straight line I spun the wheel manually (no motor) to see things work in slow motion. The top thread got bundled below the plate. I cleared that & started over. Then went to the narrowest zig-zag setting and the needle broke. I think I used the motor for the zig-zag. I’m just starting to learn. I know from videos that pushing the fabric while the needle is down can bend the needle and put it in harms way. I don’t think I was pushing or pulling the fabric when the needle broke. So I wonder what would cause this-- does this mean the timing is off and needs adjustment? I’m not enthusiastic about doing much experimentation at this point because needles seem pricey enough that I don’t want to break many (1¼ the cost of a Big Mac in my area buys 5 needles). But I just removed the top thread and bobbin and installed the empty bobbin case. When I manually spin the wheel with no thread at various zig-zig widths, there is no apparent contact with the needle. So perhaps the thread occasionally bundling up under the plate is part of the issue. *update:* if I load thread and manually crank for the zig-zag patterns, most stitches are missed. The thread is plunged in from the top but does not get grabbed from the bottom most of the time.

(view this in gemini too! gemini://okasen.smol.pub/how-a-dress-becomes-a-sweater) I just want to share this sweater DIY project I did last night in a furious anger at fast fashion. If anyone wants specific construction details, I can try to provide answers to questions! But in general, it was very slapdash and haphazard and I don't recommend anyone just jump straight into turning one piece of clothing into an entirely other piece. It takes a lot of practice and... battle-hardenedness... to not give up or be too perfectionist with this kinda stuff. So if you're already a sewist, give something like this a go! If you're not a sewist: become one!

>Step-by-step explanations how to fix a garment using Sashiko and Japanese techniques. This blog features two Sashiko techniques (one explained and one in a step-by-step video)

I work mostly outside for my job in construction. I've been using polyester sun hoodies for a few years now and they are mostly good. They do a good job of letting air move across my skin without letting me get sunburned. However I don't like how quickly they start having baked in stink from sweat and I've been looking into different materials. My goal with my next purchase 1. Better for the environment 2. Less maintenance with cleaning 3. More efficient I think bamboo or linen might be my next step in my fabric journey based on my recent research but I'm looking for any assistance from someone with more experience in hot/humid climates. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

AJ is a fashion designer who focuses on making accessible fashion: clothing for diverse bodies, abilities, and genders. His online store–Pocketbean Crafts–sells magical and accessible fashion. He also has a nonprofit, Queering the Spotlight, which provides accessible fashion opportunities for artists and models. Solarpunk Now! Podcast can be followed on Mastodon at @solarpunkcast@spore.social

this (tumblr) blog is really inspiring to me, has loads of tips for clothing repair, sewing, knitting, crafting on the cheap https://wastelesscrafts.tumblr.com/